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June 2023 - Tasting Notes <France>

matatkin

Updated: May 26, 2023

This is the one I have been holding back as a really special option for us. It's rare to be able to find French wines of this quality to fit within the York Wine Club subscription pricepoint, but by hunting through my suppliers we can do this now.


It's month 7 of wine club, so your initial 6 month subscriptions have come to an end. I hope that you see the value in the club and these wine collections and want to continue to subscribe. It would mean a huge amount to grow the club further.


Now - let's talk about France!!! Some say that it's become overpriced, with other global region wines offering greater value (look at Spain, Chile, South Africa).....well, this selection challenges that.


We're looking here at wines from the Rhone and the South. So, verging on Mediterranean climates which enables the limited or zero use of inorganic chemicals....thus making these organic and sustainable wines. However, to counter the heat of the Mediterranean, then growers have looked to moderate the vines to enable them to maintain their acidity and not become to 'sugar heavy' and therefore overly alcoholic. As I say, clever winemaking to ensure great quality in the bottle.


This month we have 3 whites and 3 reds.


I hope you enjoy. Big Love Matt x

Domaine de la Grande Courtade Chardonnay, IGP Pays d’Oc 2021

Tasting Notes: Organically produced Chardonnay. The vineyards of which come from the Fabre family’s vineyards known as ‘La Grande Courtade’. Here, the wine cellar houses vats that were built by their ancestors in the 18th century and have been in use ever since. This grape proves its capacity to adapt to soils with high pH, where it is able to express great freshness even when bathed in sunshine. This wine was made from a blend of well-ripened Chardonnay and earlier-picked grapes with good acidity. Aged in oak, this Chardonnay is generous and represents excellent value. The grapes are harvested during the night and pressed immediately. 20% of the juice is vinified in barrels and aged for 6 months on its lees using battonage, and the remainder is vinified in stainless steel. On the palate is white flowers and stone fruits, and just a hint of smokey savoury characteristics from the subtle use of oak. Further, giving wine weight and texture, whilst retaining freshness and acidity. Food Match: Simply grilled fish or pan roasted in some butter, and roasted vegetables.


Château l’Ermite d’Auzan Blanc, Costières de Nîmes 2022

Tasting Note: The vineyard benefits from the exposure of Costières de Nîmes southern hillsides cascading down towards the Mediterranean, a location which provides optimal sunshine but benefits from freshening sea breezes. This cool marine wind drops summer temperatures from 35°C to 30°C favouring even ripening and water retention in the pebbly soil. This wine is produced from low-yielding 20 year old vines yielding 50hl/ha. Grapes are picked early to preserve fruit aromas. The winery is a member of Terra Vitis, a group dedicated to safeguarding the environment and using natural treatments wherever possible, and has now moved to full organic certification. Grapes are destemmed before being gently pressed. The must is cooled to 6ºC to facilitate natural clarification then fermented at 16º & kept on the fine lees for 3 months to develop and accentuate the flavours. Gently aromatic on the nose with ripe nectarines, apricot and some spice on the palate. Rounded and satisfying with a long ripe finish. Bouncy and modern but very much of its place. Food Match: A lovely apéritif but also matches well with asparagus, grilled fish and chicken in a creamy sauce.


Domaine de Vedilhan 'Serica' Viognier, Pays d’Oc 2021

Tasting Note: All good wine is made as much in the vineyard as it is in the cellar. This is especially true of Serica Viognier, where the grower nurtures his Viognier vines producing healthy grapes at optimum ripeness. Domaine de Vedilhan (pronounced 'Domaine de Ved-ee-ohn') is the estate of the Fayet family based in the village of Moussan, close to Narbonne. Uniquely a brook runs around the estate which provides much needed water in this very hot climate, giving the wines their freshness and appeal. Vines are managed using the 'lutte raisonnée' method and terroir is a combination of limestone, sand and sea shale, meaning the vines dig deep for their nutrients and thus produce excellent quality grapes. 50% of the production from this Domaine is used for Boutinot wines. Since 1999, our winemakers have been working closely with the Fayets on all aspects of the production, from when to harvest to the exact blend or style of wines. For ‘Serica’, Vioginer grapes are picked at optimum ripeness with two-thirds barrel-fermented in mature French oak to bring subtle texture and richness. The wine is aptly named after the Latin name for silk, 'Serica'. In the 14th century, silk production or sericulture was as widespread in this region as viticulture.Elaborately textured, full-flavoured Viognier. The wine is aptly named after the Latin name for silk, 'Serica'. Bitter-sweet crystalised orange peel aromas with powerful yet retrained flavours on the palate. Barrel-fermentation brings subtle texture and richness rather than a dominant oaky flavour, leaving rich stone fruits to shine through. The finish is complex, satisfying and well-balanced. Food Match: Try with seared scallops or pan-fried tiger prawns with garlic. A nice match for aromatic Vietnamese dishes.


Les Roches Bleues, Brouilly, Le Cru du Volcan 2019


Tasting Note: This delight, grown on the bluey-purple soils of Mont Brouilly, is a stunner. The Gamay grapes give raspberry acidity which is matched with a distinctive savoury, earthy edge reminiscent of good Cabernet Franc. The old, short, goblet-trained vines growing in this favoured corner of Brouilly sit on bluey-purple layers of manganese soil ('Les Roches Bleues') under the 1585-foot Mont Brouilly. The summit of Brouilly has also been a place of worship since 1857, when a chapel was built for the protection of the vines from oidium (mildew). This wine was crafted from a parcel of vines in a single domaine near the summit of this long-extinct volcano (hence Volcan in the name of the wine). Grapes are hand-picked and whole-berry fermented for 5-8 days (maceration carbonique) followed by a further 2 or 3 days on the skins in order to keep plenty of aromatic young fruit whilst adding a touch of subtle tannin to give greater weight. Plums, raspberries and violets on the nose with an earthy, mildly sticky, sappy tannin profile. Fresh and fruity but with a distinctive savoury edge. Food Match: Served at room temperature, it is ideal with 'pepposo' (a peppery italian beef stew), a peppered steak or, for a simple lunch, a pastrami on rye sandwich.


Domaine Mas Barrau Cabernet Franc, Pays du Gard 2022


Tasting Note: Cabernet Franc is much under-rated and is rarely cultivated outside its traditional habitats of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. At Domaine Mas Barrau in the Gard region of Southern Rhône, Boutinot’s Guillaume (Letang) and Samantha (Bailey) a have worked together with the family of this organic estate near Nîmes to produce a wine that sets new standards for Cabernet Franc from southern France. Guillaume looked specifically for vines which are south-facing, and thus recieve the most sunlight, to source the Cabernet Franc grapes for this wine. The terroir is full of limestone which gives rich yet soft and lightly acidic wine – this in turn gives the drinker a pleasantly sweet sensation on the palate. Textured and luxurious this is a sophisticated Cabernet Franc from Gard. There is a wild 'after the rain' woodland perfume, with menthol and truffley hints. The palate is incredibly long and layered with bramble fruit, earthy peppery layers and a touch of sweet prune on the finish. Food Match: Juicy lamb shanks, rich tomato based dishes laced with roasted garlic and pepper, marinated steak with mashed potato and green beans or savour it at the end of the meal over a good cheeseboard.



Apis Mellifera - Vin Biologique 2021, Cairanne


Tasting Notes: Named to honour the honeybees that are crucial for pollinating our vines. This parcel of unoaked and bright Cairanne was sourced by Julien Dugas from a neighbouring partner grower who has converted to organic viticulture. Vinified in concrete to maintain the fresh, juicy character of the wine. An open and inviting wine. Bright and fresh on the nose, Summer red berry fruits combine with spicy notes typical of this terroir. The mouth is upfront juicy and fresh, with good texture in the mid-palate, leading to a long, fruity finish. Food Match: Simple grilled lamb chops and chips, or alternatively try with roasted artichoke.


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